A tray incubated in proper humdity of about 90-95% will almost never grow mold, but it's not easy getting the humidity down in some setups. I like to keep my casing a bit drier so I don't depend on being clean to keep green mold away. The trouble with being too wet is that you are roling the green mold dice so to speak. In my experience the picture he shows will fruit well, but it looks a little wet. I often pick off single B+ fruits in the later flushes of thicker manure trays that are 100+ grams wet. My favorite so far are the Ecuadors for speed of colonization and density of first pin set and B+ for ease of stomach upset and the biggest later flush fruits. I've tried Ecuadors, Mazapatecs, B+, PF spores (whatever they are), and golden teacher. It looks pretty good so far, so I will wait a few more days and see some real pins hopefully. I figure that is a good few air exchanges. The exhaust fan is not controlled unfortunately, I just keep the fan bypassed enough to make the humidifier kick in only a handful of times every hour. Notice, ultrasonic humidifer, left, and exhaust fan, back right, homemade humidity and temp controller, bottom left, and not shown, a big oil filled heater that is controlled to keep my closet just right. Hopefully this will work out?Īnyways, i figure i should throw in a pic of my setup for the hey hoo. Usually it seems that the bulges are at the surface, whereas in my case they are in the air. I guess that those "pins (sic.)" (rhizo growth) are starting to actually form primordia (bulges). I hope that it has all regrown into the main substrate. The main mycellium in not from grown into the casing, but from chunks from deep scratching. So, I drained the excess water, and did some "deep scratching" and some casing patching, and basically screwed around with it, so I wasn't sure if I had messed it up. I have done much research on the subject however, I accidentaly completely soaked my casing for a few days without noticing.
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